Ride Smart Out There! Here are a few tips.

Prepare for safety.

• Always make sure your ATV is in good operating condition.
• Check the gas level before riding. In an hour, riders can travel farther than they can walk in eight hours.
• Don’t forget your tools, trail maps, a first-aid kit, and a compass.
• Always ride with a companion.
• Know your local emergency telephone numbers before you ride.

 

Thanks to everyone who participated at the 4 Seasons Extravaganza at Little Sahara this last UEA weekend. We had a good turn out and a lot of recreational vehicles that were played on. Good times were had and memories were made. 

We hope you will find the time to get out there and make your own memories. Safe Riding!

Visit www.4SeasonsPowerToys.com to learn how you can get access to all the recreational vehicles you want without the hassles, and make family memories that will last a lifetime!

o

Thanks to Erika Weston on About.com, Jazzmotorsport, and Mark Polk for the winterizing tips.

 

Boat Winterizing:

By carefully winterizing a boat’s drive system, you can save yourself thousands of dollars in repairs and the frustration of poor performance in the spring. Follow these steps to winterizing your boat’s drive system, and when warm weather arrives once again you will be out on the water in no time.

To Winterize Well, Plan Ahead and Use A Checklist

Before you begin, plan ahead by gathering all the necessary items to perform the task. Use a convenient checklist to keep the process organized and to ensure each step is completed whether you do the work or you hire a professional. Add to the checklist tasks or specific products recommended by the manufacturer manual.

Change the Engine and Drive Train Oil

After running your boat all summer, it’s likely that water, acids and other byproducts have built up. It’s important to change the oil to prevent corrosion and excessive wear which can lead to loss of power, poor fuel economy or engine failure. Use a manual or electric oil changing system to make draining the oil easier, then add new oil according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Run the engine to circulate the oil through the system. At the same time you change the oil, be sure to change the oil filter. Change the oil in transmission or the outboard’s lower unit as well.

Add Antifreeze to an Inboard Cooling Systems

To protect the engine against damage from freezing, run antifreeze through the engine. For the best protection, drain as much water as possible and use a marine engine grade antifreeze - either one rated to -60 degrees or -100 degrees. Do not dilute the antifreeze or it will not perform correctly, which can be costly to you.

Inboards: Before adding antifreeze, start the engines to warm them up. After the engines are warm, close the seacock and open the strainer to flush the water. Finally, add the antifreeze. For smaller inboard motors, using a flush kit can make it easier to get the antifreeze into the motor. For larger inboards, one way is to start the engine and quickly pour the antifreeze in while it’s running. Do not let the engine run for more than a few seconds without antifreeze. This method usually works best with 2 people, but if it’s only you, try disconnecting the cooling hose from the thru-hull, and placing it in a large bucket filled with antifreeze and run the engine. Add the antifreeze until you see it come of the exhaust.

Outboards: Purchase a winterizing kit from your local marine supply store that contains a bucket, hose and fittings. Connect the hose and fittings and use them to suck the antifreeze out of the bucket and into the engine.

Fog the Engine Cylinders

To protect the inside of the engine until spring, you must fog the engine to protect its moving parts. You can spray them into the carburetor while the engine is running or apply it through spark plugs holes while the engine is turned over. Consult the engine’s manual, a mechanic or the manufacturer to find out which method to use for your engine.

Treat the Fuel System

Experts disagree on the best method for winterizing a boat’s fuel system. One method is to empty the fuel tank completely, which is extremely difficult. The second method, generally preferred by boaters, is to empty the fuel tank as much as possible and then refill it to leave as little room as possible. Once the tank is full, treat the fuel with a with a biocide (for diesels) or a stabilizer (for all engines). After adding it to the fuel, run the engine for 10 minutes or so to be sure stabilized fuel circulates throughout the engine.

Caring for the Batteries

If your boat is small enough, simply disconnect the batteries and bring them home, add distilled water and charge them occasionally. For larger boats, disconnect the batteries, add distilled water and then periodically reconnect and charge them using shore power.

By following the directions to winterizing your boat’s engine, you are ensuring the best possible performance from your boat’s propulsion system. Next, winterize the hull and interior of the boat so when spring arrives, you can be confident that the steps you took in the fall will mean less hassle before getting out on the water again.

 

 

PWC Winterization

1. Pull the drain plugs and remove all water from the hull. At this point you may also want to wash your engine compartment and outer hull. Make sure to get ALL the water out of the hull. Any water left inside the engine compartment will cause condensation and corrosion on your engine.
2. If you ride in salt water. Flush your watercrafts cooling system with Salt-Away. This prevents internal engine corrosion.
3. Add Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer to your watercrafts fuel tank.
4. Fog the engine with marine grade engine fogging oil. Start the engine and spray the fogging oil into the carburetor. Running the engine at this point will also circulate the stabilized fuel into the fuel lines and carburetors. Fog for 10-15 seconds and shut the engine down. Turn your fuel switch to the OFF position.
5. Remove the driveline cover and grease all fittings on the driveline with a grease gun. Re-install your driveline cover.
6. If you own a Sea-Doo, now is the time to change your pump oil. It is better to do when winterizing rather than in the spring. If any water has entered the pump oil you don t want it sitting in there all winter and ruining your pump bearings. To do this, disconnect your steering cable, trim cable, and reverse cable. Next remove the steering and exit nozzles. Then remove the pump cone. Let all of the old oil drain out. Reinstall the pump cone (make sure to inspect the O-ring and seal it with Loctite 518 or equivalent). Refill the pump cone through the filler hole (set screw) with Sea-Doo Pump Oil or equivalent synthetic gear lube.
7. At this point, if you store your area where the temperature will drop below freezing, add 50/50 water-antifreeze mix to the cooling system. Disconnect the water in-line from the cylinder head. Connect a hose with a funnel on the other end. Pour in antifreeze until it comes out the outlet of the cooling system. Make sure the antifreeze you use is aluminum safe. Most newer antifreeze brands are.
8. Lube all of your cables, spray down your pump, and lube your steering system with silicon spray lube.
9. Spray down your engine with silicon spray lube. A light coating is all you need to protect it from corrosion.
10. Make any notes of problems that should be addressed before you go riding next spring.

 

RV Winterizing

Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores:

• Non-toxic RV antifreeze (The amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. Two to three gallons will normally do).
• A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.
• A wand to clean out holding tanks.
• A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.
• Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.

Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it from freezing. Be sure to read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV.

• If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass before starting.
• Drain the fresh water holding tank.
• Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. If your RV doesn’t have a built in tank flushing system clean the black tank out with a wand, or use a product like Flush King that allows you to clean both the black and gray tanks. Lubricate the termination valves with WD 40.
• Drain the water heater. Remove the drain plug and open the pressure relief valve.CAUTION (never drain the water heater when it is hot or under pressure)
• Open all hot and cold faucets; don’t forget the toilet valve and outside shower.
• Locate and open the low point drain lines. There will be one for the hot and cold water lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained.
• Recap all drains and close all faucets.
• By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of antifreeze.
• Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the water pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank). Connect a piece of clear tubing to the inlet side of the pump and put the other end into a one gallon container of non-toxic RV antifreeze.
• Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet, slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace the antifreeze container as required.
• Repeat this process on all faucets from the closest to the farthest away. Don’t forget the outside shower, if equipped.
• Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.
• Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go outside to the city water inlet. Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen.
• Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a couple of cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank.
• If your water heater has an electric heating element make sure it is turned off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored.
• Make sure all the faucets are closed.
• Consult your owner manuals for winterizing icemakers and washing machines.
• The unit is winterized.

This checklist is a basic guide that was intended to assist you in winterizing your RV. As with many other checklists it would be impossible to cover every RV. It is extremely important that you read your owner’s manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines.

 

Visit www.4SeasonsPowerToys.com to learn how you can get access to all the recreational vehicles you want, or to have them winterized!

o

Thanks to utah.com for this week’s featured spot - the dunes at Little Sahara. If you haven’t been there, what are you waiting for??

Little Sahara Recreation Area

Wondering where you can power a hill and glide…or bounce yourself silly amidst the boonies? A place where you can hang with the crowd or saddle up and ride off into a sage-tinged sunset? Then look no further than Little Sahara. It’s your Great Basin ride-a-way tucked away in the Sevier Desert of central Utah.

It’s a place big enough and diverse enough that you’ll want to discover it…again…and again.

A Sandy Reminder of Ancient Lake Bonneville

A plentiful sand source and strong prevailing winds have combined to create Little Sahara, one of the largest dune fields found in Utah. Most of the sand at Little Sahara is the result of deposits left by the Sevier River, which once flowed into ancient Lake Bonneville some 15,000 years ago. After the lake receded, the southwesterly winds that flow across the Sevier Desert picked up the exposed sand. Sand Mountain, in the middle of the dune field, deflected the wind upward, causing it to slow and drop its load of sand. Sand particles, composed mostly of quartz, fell downwind among the sagebrush and juniper around Sand Mountain ultimately creating a 124-square-mile system of giant, free-moving, sand dunes.

The dunes are still moving to the north and east between 5 and 9 feet per year.

Rockwell–when It’s Time to Relax and Hike a Hill

You can experience the quiet side of Little Sahara at the Rockwell Outstanding Natural Area. Set aside as a vehicle-free zone, this 9,000-acre unit is a miniature version of the larger surrounding desert ecosystem. Rockwell’s sand dunes, scattered junipers, and sagebrush flats provide habitat for a diverse array of plants and animals. Mule deer and antelope, 15 species of birds, the Desert whipsnake, and 8 other species of reptiles live here. Stands of Utah juniper, sagebrush and grasses typical of the Great Basin, plus an extremely rare species of saltbush, dot the landscape.

Great horned owls are one of several different species of birds of prey that nest in the juniper stands inside the Rockwell Outstanding Natural Area.

Preserve the natural beauty and enhance the hiking, birding and other muscle-powered recreational opportunities found in Rockwell by keeping motor vehicles outside the boundaries of the natural area.

Sand Sanctuary For Good Ol’ Atriplex canescens gigantea

Atriplex canescens variety gigantea, also known as giant four-winged saltbush, is a unique plant species. The dune fields of Little Sahara are the only place in the world where this particular variety of saltbush grows naturally. Special adaptations, such as rapid root growth, huge size, and the ability of stems to develop roots, enable the giant four-wing saltbush to survive in Little Sahara’s harsh environment of shifting sand.

Please help protect this extremely rare inhabitant of Little Sahara. Avoid running over this plant or its roots and do not break off branches for firewood.

How to Get There

The entrance road to Little Sahara is 4 miles west of Jericho Junction.

• From Nephi (west): 31 miles via SR 132 and Juab County Route 1812.
• From Eureka (south): 18 miles on US 6.
• From Delta (north): 34 miles on US 6.
• Little Sahara is approximately 115 miles from Salt Lake City via Nephi.

What’s Your Pleasure?

Little Sahara is not just one type of riding. With nearly 60,000 acres of dunes, trail and sagebrush flats, you’ve got options–plenty of them.

May we suggest

Sand Mountain: A wall of sand climbing nearly 700 feet high provides the ultimate challenge to rider and machine. This is the prime-time focal point for hill climbing.

White Sands Dunes: Easy access to dunes and plentiful riding bowls attract riders of all abilities to this spot on the north end of the recreation area.

Dunes southwest of Black Mountain: Low-lying dunes provide good terrain for beginners or for those who just want to get away from the crowds.

Black Mountain: A network of dirt trails up, over, and around this peak offer excellent trail riding for just about any kind of off highway vehicle.

Camping

White Sands: Campsites nestled among the juniper and immediate access to dunes makes this a popular destination. 99 campsites, flush toilets (vault in winter), drinking water, fenced play area.

Oasis: The most developed site in the recreation area. Paved pads for trailers and motor homes combined with ready access to the dunes makes this a popular site with families. 114 campsites, flush toilets (vault in winter), RV dump station, drinking water.

Jericho: Originally designed as a fenced picnic area, Jericho serves as an overflow camping area. Good area for large groups. Paved parking access road, 41 picnic tables with shade ramadas, flush toilets, drinking water, amphitheater, fenced sand play area.

Sand Mountain: Primitive camping/staging area. This place really rocks during popular holiday weekends. 3 paved parking loops, vault toilets, drinking water, tent spaces.

Dispersed camping is permitted throughout the Little Sahara Recreation Area. Please follow “Leave No Trace” camping techniques to preserve the beauty of the area.

How to Keep a Great Place Great

• If you’re under 18 years of age, helmets are the law. If older, why tempt the law of averages?
• Broken Glass in the sand is dangerous. Please help by disposing of broken glass properly.
• Drinking and driving don’t mix. Now repeat after me, “Drinking and…..”
• Help wipe out collisions by using a whip flag. For safety’s sake, State regulations require the use of whip flags in sand dune areas.
• Do forget the firearms. Discharging them at Little Sahara is illegal, so please leave them home.
• Vandalism of toilets and tables is everyone’s loss and costs all of us money. If you observe vandalism, please report it to a BLM ranger.
• If you pack it in, pack it out. Aluminum and glass don’t burn, so please keep them out of your campfire.
• Play safe, not sorry. Each year several people are seriously injured or killed in the dunes due to accidents. Always check for steep drop-offs or other riders before powering over the crest of a dune.
• Remember, watch out for pedestrians and children playing in the dunes.
• Tread Lightly! Drive responsibly to protect the environment and preserve the opportunities to enjoy recreation at Little Sahara.

World’s Largest Sandboxes

Two of the world’s largest sandboxes have been set aside, adjacent to the White Sands Campground and Jericho Picnic Area. Each of the play areas covers several acres, and each is fenced to provide a clean, safe haven for children.

Please remember that tunneling in the sand can be dangerous. Children should be supervised at all times to ensure their safety. Vehicles or horses are not permitted inside the play areas.

The candy-striped homing pole in the White Sands Play Area serves as a visual reference point.

Emergencies

Law Enforcement Officer can be reached through the Fillmore Field Office at 435-743-3100

Nearest Medical Clinic
There is a first aide station at the Little Sahara visitor center.
The closest clinic is Central Valley Medical Clinic in Nephi (27 miles from Jericho Jct.)
18 West 1500 N
(435) 623-3000
At Nephi, proceed east to Main Street. Turn north onto Main Street and drive 1.4 miles to the clinic.

Nearest Telephone
BLM Visitor Center
Lynndyl is 21 miles south on US 6
Eureka 23 miles north on US 6

Law Enforcement
BLM Officer through Fillmore Office
(435) 743-3123
Juab County Sheriff (435) 623-1344

Info At a Glance

Fees

Fees are $8.00 per day per vehicle. Annual Passes are available for $75 for the first vehicle and $50 for the second vehicle. Both vehicles must be registered to the same owner. Please pay at the self-registration station located on the entrance road next to the visitor center.

Water

Drinking water is available at White Sands, Jericho, Sand Mountain, and Oasis, and the BLM Visitor Center during frost-free months. Year-round at visitor center only.

Visitor Center

Center is open primarily during Spring and Fall heavy use periods. Hours of operation vary. Visitor Center telephone number (through Richfield BLM Office) is 435-433-5960. Weather Information: 435-433-5961.

Gasoline and Groceries

Services are available in neighboring communities of Nephi, Delta, Eureka and Lynndyl.

Additional Information…

For more information about the surrounding area: Juab County Travel, 800-748-4361. Piute County Travel Information, 435-577-2949. Millard County Travel Information, 435-864-4316

Visit www.4SeasonsPowerToys.com to learn how you can get access to all the recreational vehicles you want!

o